Alpamayo 2025
In 2019 we took the best trek I have ever taken. Went to the Peruvian Alps – north of Lima and did the Huayhuash Trek. We decided to sort-of do it again. We asked the same group of 6 if they wanted to go, but most had other commitments – so we were down to 3 – Tim, Pat and me. We booked it. At the last minute Tim had to bail, so it was just Pat and me… Not the original idea, but we really wanted to go and we made the leap to go it alone!! Tim looked at the booking company and they have a 10 day trek near our first one “Alpamayo Trek” that looked good. It went near another trek “Santa Cruz” but the Santa Cruz was not as many days and didn’t look like it was as interesting.
We left early on Friday May 17 for an all-day trek on American Airlines. Always the worry that our luggage wouldn’t make it or we would miss our connection in Miami. But (thankfully) all went well and we arrived in Lima Peru late Friday night. We met our driver (Marco) who proved we didn’t want to even THINK about driving in Lima. Crazy drivers. We made it to our hotel in the MiraFlores section of the city … about 6 miles south of city center.
Saturday we decided to get in our steps and used the GPS MyCity App to go around the area. We went to see an archeological site and all the surfers / runners on all the paths. Weather was perfect, but haze limited visibility around. Not a very pretty city with haze.
We stayed at the Runcu Hotel. We did go for a spectacular dinner at El Señorío de Sulco. It was a real treat.
The park was sort of a cat refuge. They fed cats and provided housing – some were two stories, others fancier.
The archeological site in MiraFlores region. Could be a monument to the ocean. Each brick was hand made and earthquake resistant.
Many appreciated the cats…
Lots of Surfers and runners out in the haze/fog.
There were many murals in Lima
Sunday we did more walking in Lima – this time north. Went to the shore and walked there. Again hazy. Not much to see.
Then it was time to go to Huruaz – our base for the Trek. Same place that we went last time – about 120 miles north and inland from Lima – at 10K feet altitude. We met Marco to take us the 45 minutes to the Bus station. Had a LONG wait in a place where almost no one speaks English. Then goodness for Google Translate. Took the long boring bus – 8 hours or so. We went over a pass of 13,500 ft. It was a LONG ride. Nothing to see over bad roads.
Finally arrived at our base for the hiking… Late arrival – 9pm-ish and the Go2Andies folks met us at the bus station. Wilfredo (Willy) and his son Mathew. We went to the hotel Cordillera in town. Dropped our stuff and off to dinner. Went to Trivol in the “trekkers fast food court”.
Looking down at Huruaz
Next morning off to our first practice hike with Wilfredo and son. Went to the same training place as we did in 2019 – to Wilcacocha Laguna “lake.” We went about 5 miles and 1,800ft altitude gain. But went higher this time and made it to the Huycapunt overlook/monument. Seems we are both doing fine from a health and readiness perspective.
The roads here suck! They only put down 1/4 inch of asphalt so it quickly caves and driving is really slow. It does feel like a third world country. Nice people. Many are out selling water or trinkets looking for money. Huaraz is a delightful town – probably 10K people.
Willy and his son, Mathew
The boy (and his mother) were watching the sheep.
Potato Harvesting – a family affair!
At the top of the hike.
We went for a quick pre-dinner walk and spent some time in the town square people watching. Went for a marginal dinner — next time we will check out Google’s recommendations.
Thank goodness for Google Translate! We have good internet / cell service so far.
Today we headed off to practice hike #2 Churup lake – a higher climb.
We went with the driver “Uber” past the Go2Andies headquarters and up the hill to the hike. While only 4 miles we went up about 2000 feet past the altitude of Whitney to about 14,800ft. Some hard climbing with rope assist. A wonderful lake with LOTS of others doing the hike. Most of them were 30 and really strong. We were the slowest, but still did a good job.
Lake Churup
Huruaz
Willy and Uber
Back for a nice Osso Bucco meal and found that our blood oxygen levels are around 85 – which when we looked it up is about normal for being at 10K+ altitude.
The Alpamayo Trek
Off for the trek! It’s a very long drive north to our departure at Amapampa. It was a very windy, very rough road up from the 10K of Huaraz to the pass at 15K (yes, driving above Whitney). The “road” was a rocky one and we went down one path only to find there was a slide and it closed it. Long diversion to make it to camp.
Came down to the town where we (they) set up our camp in a field next to the village. The folks here don’t speak Spanish, but Quechua “catch-won”. Some spoke Spanish as their second language. Nice friendly folks. They have converted to growing strawberries all year round and sell for export. So many are doing that now. We met a lady and she picked a batch for us … OMG they are the most tasty strawberries I have ever had!! So sweet.
Pat and I each have a 3 person tent – pure heaven! Able to really spread out. Just wish I had brought my little chair. I’m not good at sitting on the floor.
We watched the locals playing volleyball ! Wow, they are good. They had two teams of 6 playing for money. It was delightful watching the interactions of all age groups – from 6 months old to senior. Most of the youth were playing the game. So social, so much person to person learning. So much problem solving. We are missing that at home.
Dinners are going to be good! We had a great soup, fresh trout and fresh strawberries for desert. I would like to loose weight on the trip, but They are not helping.
Weather has been fine. A bit chilly at night and a few scattered rain showers came through. Looks like I’m pretty good for my packing.
The locals have found that strawberries are a great crop – year round and mainly for export.
Marco is our cook!
GPS track on CalTopo: caltopo.com/m/M8AAHUD
The Trek started in Amapampa on the south east side. We went basically north and went around Alpamayo peak with good views of Santa Cruz peaks. 8 days hiking over 52 miles – mostly on-trail. Up to 16,000′ altitude.
Day 1 - Start Real Hike - May 22, 2025
The first day hiking was a short one – only 3.5 miles and 1,400′ up. We added a mile of day hike to a ridge to get a view down the valley.
Breakfast at 7:30am and off we go. A very, very short day. I think they are still a bit worried about our ability to deal with the altitude. We set up on a hillside up from the road. No cell service here, so we walked up to a viewpoint to see the terrain and call Barbara to transfer money to Amanda for her backyard. Amazing what you can do from a distance. Good to talk with Barbara!!
The hills tend to be clear in the early morning, then all the peaks get covered with clouds. Still a delightful view! So many good pictures…
More close-up with the strawberry farms.
At the viewpoint
Looking back to our campsite. Pat and I had the big yellow tents, the blue/green kitchen/dining tent and the orange tents for the cook/guide. And (of course) the latrine!
The Lupin was amazing – and varied – for the full hike. These are being farmed for their seeds. Big seeds that are boiled.
Always time to look at the stars. Moonless nights so everything looks great. That is if you can stay awake!
It has taken a while, but this is becoming one of my favorite pictures of the trek. Something about the light. It continues to grow on me. And to think it was rated “1” for a long time – now it’s rated 3.
Day 2 May 23, 2025
The morning view from the tent
Another short day. Longer than yesterday, but still short. Up to a pass then down walking along the water aqueduct to a small lake. Saw two trout farms (at 13Kft!). And they were raising trout in the lake. Then to our hidden campsite at the base of a wonderful mountain. But (as happens after 10am) it’s pretty covered in clouds. We did get a peak at it a few times and we should be able to get some good photos of the Milky Way tonight. I do wish I had brought my camp chair. My body is not very flexible.
We had a fun conversation with our cook and guide (Marco and Willy) about children and food. Some about out experiences with our kind of backpacking. We had rain while we were in our tents and it’s a little chilly out. 43 degrees and last night it was down to 30. Frost everywhere (and on the lens).
This evening it was warmer and we had some good looks at the mountains. I am trying a few new techniques for taking pictures of the Milky Way. A batch of 12 second exposures and I’ll layer them in Photoshop. Wish me luck! Got some good pictures of the southern cross with the Milky Way around it. The prediction was the milky way would be directly behind the peaks at 4:30am AND the very skinny moon might light up the peaks. But at 4:”30 we had clouds. Oh well. Warmer overnight.
Moving water was a channel on the hillside. Sometimes doubling as a “trail”
Nearby, the sheep herder was working wool with her watchdog.
We had our snacks for the day near a little lake. Looks like they tried to make it a recreational destination, including a tour boat, but it didn’t make it. We shared the space with these sheep.
At high altitude who would have thought there would be fish farms? Some sort of trout – our cook purchased some and they were really good!
Our campsite
A family working the sheep.
We had many encounters with cows along the path. They seemed pissed that we were interrupting them.
A good view of the Southern Cross (but it looks more like a kite to me). Just left of center.
Day 3 - May 24, 2025
Our campsite in the morning
Nothing cuter than baby pigs
Another fairly short day (6 miles) to another great view of yet another mountain. It has a big glacier and then the peaks next to it. The flat area was a standard campsite and we immediately had someone set up shop to sell beer. I purchased for the team.
Pat had a reaction to something and was weaker than normal and a bit sick to her stomach. She took it easy with food for the day.
As we departed camp…
Very different terrain than the first trek to this region. Shows what moving 120 miles north does.
I went out to get closer to the hills and on the way back stepped into a bog that was at least 3’ deep. I was very wet. Luckily it didn’t get to my camera that was hanging there and luckily I was able to get my shoes out. Everyone laughed at me. I deserved it.
I need to write up about a “Glamping scale” since Pat and I consider this glamping, but most others would think it’s a tough life. I’ll put something at the start of the trip reporting.
I did call Barbara from one of the passes. Cell service didn’t work, but FaceTime did. Crazy. Good to catch up and to get my emails so I can go through and try and get ahead of them before I return. I do think I want a MacBook Air to bring with me next time. The iPad (which is what I’m typing on now) is just too limited.
I brought two 20KAH bricks. I think it will cover the days on the road!! MUCH better than trying to do solar.
I love the Canon EOS R6M2, especially the controls. I’m thinking of looking for yet another camera – the EOS R50 just doesn’t have the easy controls. I like everything else about it – especially the weight – but I can’t get the pictures I want. Stupid me. I have a brilliant idea – use the lens from the R50 with the R6 body. That just might save me enough weight!! When I get home I’ll try it. Nope. Too heavy, but the R10 might do it!
Willy’s brother (a lawyer) came up to visit him tonight. Fun to have another family person here. I like it.
There was a number of locals selling beer and soda at the camp.
Sheep seemed to like the grass near our tents!
Willy took a time-lapse of the clouds moving over the hills…
I brought a tripod, guess I should use it!
Day 4 - May 25, 2025
We had a hard ascent the next morning and really beautiful views. Then a long descent to our camp.
It clouded over and I got a similar bug to the one pat got. Lots of up, but I trudged on. We had a hard ascent then a really hard descent to a great view of Alpamayo peak! Actually we couldn’t see it on the descent with the clouds, but then it started to rain. We arrived in camp and did I crash. It rained for a few hours and Pat and I just stayed in our little tents. I was sleeping most of the time. When we came out it was absolutely spectacular views of Alpamayo peak.
Light dinner for me with my illness then for a nice night sleep (according to me, not my watch).
This family spent time in camp to sell beer and other drinks. They gave me permission to take their picture…
A nice gentle walk on the way to the pass
Some don’t make it.
I do love the babies. So many cattle on the route.
The high point of the day – looking back from close to the top of the pass…
Pat coming up to the top of the pass
Glamping our way to lunch. Marco serving, Willy delivery
Looking down the canyon we were about to walk. We went to the left branch at the river (that’s where the Llama are living) and went up a half mile or so to our campground.
According to Google, these are Viscacha – related to Chinchillas.
Arrival at our camp.
Day 5 - May 26, 2025
Sunset
A lost day. Weather was not as good – many clouds. I think this was my day of not feeling so good. The “safety” horse came with us in case I wanted a ride.
At the pass.
Sunset looking at Alpamayo.
Day 6 - May 27, 2025
The morning was spectacular! We planned on spending two nights at this campground and we went for a day hike up to see Alpamayo and Santa Cruz Peaks. The weather gods were with us and we saw both – it was amazing.
On the top, Willy said we might move came to a lower location so tomorrow would be easier. So camp relocated. I did a slip into a nothing stream we were crossing. Slippery rock and got my left side soaked. Silly me.
In camp to find my air mattress seems to have broken a seam inside and will need to be replaced/repaired. It’s lasted a long time.
Sunrise from camp. First good look at Alpamayo peak. The plan is to walk to “basecamp” for the northern ascent of Alpamayo. Not used that much since most approach from the South? West?
It is a beautiful peak.
Heading to the basecamp location. We now see Santa Cruz peak. Well one of the three peaks.
Same lake, change of light.
Our new camp.
Day 7 - May 28, 2025
This should be a hard day (lots of elevation gain), but didn’t feel that hard. We were able to see the three peaks of Santa Cruz from about 16K feet. WOW! It was hard to pick the best shots. So many pretty things to see!
I think these are pre-Inca ruins. Or from last season.
This was the first day we ran into anyone else (tourist) on the loop. While not popular, this was unexpected. Very few running the Alpamayo Loop this year – everyone going to Huahash trek. One said we were only the second to pass doing the loop.
Today we saw one solo blogger (he took our picture of all five of us) and another solo for a few day adventure. Both had drones. Should be shot out of sky IMHO.
Was able to talk with Barbara from both the pass and from camp (just outside of camp).
Pat and I worked out the tipping for our crew. I’m pleased with how we did it. Really glad I brought the iPad for the spreadsheet. Would rather have a MacBook Air!
What spectacular sunset and pictures for the day!! Sent text messages to family and friends.
Javier (mule driver), Marco (cook), Willy, Pat and Jerry
Probably the prettiest part of the hike.
More Lupin.
A great view of Santa Cruz mountains
Near the pass
Heading to the basecamp location. We now see Santa Cruz peak. Well one of the three peaks.
Sunset from the camp at the lake
We camped just below this lake
Day 8 - May 29, 2025
Our last day on the trail and it was a long hike down and down and down… to our final camp in town. Man was that a boring walk. I think we went down about 4000 feet. Now it’s HOT here. Are next to a soccer field and goats and chickens and sheep and cows. And horses and donkeys and dogs. There is another group next to us that seems to be getting ready to do the loop. Boy I wouldn’t want to do it clockwise. Much better the way we did it.
Our mules getting ready to travel
Finally saw a condor. He ALMOST went in front of the sun.
In the original plan, we would have spent the night here. Better choice – go down to the town for an early departure via van.
Washed hair and shaved getting ready for our drive down to Huaraz and the 3 day adventure to get home. Wish I could get internet in the campsite.
Met two girls that Willy asked over for coffee. Pre-med students from Texas visiting for a 2-3 week time to go to clinics and meet with the locals. Really nice to have someone different to talk to that had clear communication in English.
Warm night. Said goodbye to our mule driver (Javier) and did the long drive then next morning to Huaraz. Had a good-bye lunch on top of the Go2Andes office with roasted chicken/pork(?)/corn/potatoes. Nice to sit with Denise and group. Gave them some suggestions.
A useless gull at the lake
Morning frost for sunrise
Following the water supply for the town
Our destination town
May 30, 2025
Started the long trek home.
Our mules getting ready to travel
Had lunch at GoToAndes headquarters
Final day in Lima – yet another gathering.
The original site of Yungay – the snow in the background was the original location of the glacier that destroyed the city. The town that was destroyed by an earthquake/glacier slide from 10 miles away. Wiped out the whole town in 3 minutes. Only a few survivors that were at the cemetery (top of a hill).
Yungay’s Cemetery
Went to another GoogleMap recommended restaurant – another good experience. Early (6:30am) departure to the airport and away we go. We didn’t take the 8 hour bus to Lima – flew instead!
Arrival in Lima – Rainy and cloudy – decided to stay in hotel to catch up on email and return to civilization. Went to our favorite restaurant nearby. Pisco Sour and GREAT dinner.
Next (and last) morning in Lima. Took Uber to downtown. Walked around the main square (same as we did last year), then walked back to the hotel. Late checkout, showers and to airport at 6pm for our 10pm flight. But no, delayed to 11:30-ish. We arrived in Miami late and missed (by about 15 minutes) our connection to SFO, so we are stuck in MIA for 8+ hours for the next flight. WITH middle seats. So fun. I really don’t like American Airlines. They messed up communication and re-booking.
More pictures are posted to: https://www.jerrypierce.org/photos/